Basgo
is situated about 40 km west of Leh. The complex of buildings
includes a ruined fortress dating from before the 15th century,
two large temples and a small shrine. Presently, one lama from
the Hemis gompa is the caretaker at the temple.
The best preserved temple which situated at the highest point,
is the Chamba Lha-khang or Maitreya temple (Chamba is the Ladhaki
word for Maitreya, the Future Buddha). It was built in the mid
16th century by Tshe-wang Namgyal, of the Namgyal dynasty who
ruled Ladakh. With the exception of Alch, this temple has the
oldest original wall murals in Ladakh, dating from the 16th century.
Entering the Chamba Lha-khang temple, over the entrance you see
a portrait of Vajrapani (meaning "vajra-in-hand", for
Vajrapani is always shown holding a vajra).
Flanking Varapani below are the Kings of the Four Quarters and
above are Indra and Brahma on the left and Vishnu and Shiva on
the right. Below these are images of four small guardian divinities.
Below this are groups of miniature paintings that reflect the
royal dress of Kashmir and the Mughals in the 16th century, as
this wall mural is original to that time. On the right is a scene
of Tshe-wang Namgyal, his two brothers and members of the royal
family with their servants. On the left are scenes from the life
of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha). The left side wall has images
of a seated Buddha in the meditation posture, a seated Buddha
making the gesture of explanation, a painting of Atisa (and Indian
Buddhist who went to Tibet and became a great teacher of Buddhism,
dying there in 1054) and another seated Buddha whose hand-gesture
is not identifiable. On the right side wall are Avalokitesvara,
Padma Karpo, a 16th century Buddhist scholar associated with the
red-hat sect of Buddhism, a seated Buddha making the Earth-witness
gesture and Vajradhara, holding a vajra and representing the supreme
Buddha manifestation of the red-hat sect of Buddhism.
The three main images opposite the entrance are a lovely Maitreya
(the Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion) in the center, flanked
by Bodhisattva images. The one on the right is making the preaching
gesture and the one on the left is making the gesture for generosity.
To the right of these images are paintings of Padme Sambhava (an
8th century Indian teacher of Buddhism in Tibet) and Mila Ras-pa
(spiritual head of the red-hat sect and famous ascetic).
The Serzang temple (Serzang translates as "Gold and Silver")
located next to the royal quarters is in a somewhat neglected
state. Its name refers to a Buddhist canon manuscript, partially
written in gold, silver and copper letters, which are commissioned
by Senge Namgyal, a 17th century Ladakhi king. The main image
in this temple is a two-storey tall Maitreya and by his head are
mural paintings of Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Mila Ras-pa, historical
personags associated with the red-hat sect of Buddhism. The walls
are painted with Buddha figures. Volumes of the Kandsur are on
the left side of the temple. The Tandshur is on the right. Both
sets of volumes are stored in attractive glass-fronted bookcases.
Another small shrine is located off a courtyard one level below
the Serzang temple. This shrine was built in 1642 and dedicated
by a wife of Senge Namgyal, a Balti princess named Zeze Khatunee,
whose Muslim background caused the Buddhist monks in Ladakh to
declare her an incarnation of Tara. This shrine contains a large
image of Maitreya (the Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion)
while the wall murals depict various guardian divinities.