Lamayuru gompa, with its medieval village seemingly growing
out of the rocky hillside, below it lies 15 km east of the Fatu
La on the Srinagar-Leh Highway.
Lamayuru belongs to the red-hat sect of Buddhism. In the past,
the gompa housed up to 400 lamas, but presently only 30 to 50
lamas live here, although about 150 lamas belong to the gompa.
The other lamas stay and teach at Lamayuru;s daughter gompas located
in outlying villages. Twice a year, all the lamas gather for prayers,
accompanied by three days of masked dancing. These gatherings
occur in the second and fifth months of the Tibetan calendar (corresponding
usually to March and July). Ancient legends say that at the time
of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha, Lamayuru's valley was a clear
lake where nags (holy serpents) lived. The Bodhisattva Madhyantaka
foretold that the lake would be emptied and a monastery built
there. The legend continues by saying Naropa, an 11th century
Indian Buddhist scholar, came to Lamayuru and spent many years
meditating in a cave, which can still be seen in the Dukhang.
Naropa then caused a split in the surrounding hillside and the
lake emptied through this opening. After the lake emptied, Naropa
found a dead lion covered by the waters of the lake. On this spot,
Naropa built the first temple, the Singhe Ghang (Lion Mound).
Other historical accounts relate that in the 10th century the
King of Ladakh ordered the building of Lamayuru and placed it
under the supervision of Rinchen Zangbo. The original gompa was
composed of five buildings although only the central one still
stands. The 16th century, Ladakh's King Jamyang Namgyal was cured
of leprosy by a lama from Tibet. In gratitude, the King gave the
gompa to this lama and also bestowed other privileges - no taxes
were collected and the area surrounding the gompa was declared
a sanctuary where none could be arrested. For this reason, Ladakh's
still refer to Lamayuru as Tharpa Ling, the "Place of Freedom".
Walk to the large building next to a tall prayer flag pole. Go
in the doorway, up a flight of steps to the main courtyard. The
Dukhang is on the right side of the courtyard. The entrance verandah
has been recently painted with a colourful depiction of the Guardians
of the Four Directions. The mural on the left wall depicts the
proper way for a lama to live. The Dukhang was redecorated in
1970 with new column paintings. In the wall on the right side
of the Dukhang is a small cave known as Naropa's cave, where he
is supposed to have meditated for several years. This cave contains
a sttue of Naropa as well as statues of Marpa (Naropa's student
who became a translator of religious texts and famous poet) and
Mila Ras-pa (Marpa's student and a spiritual head of the red-hat
sect of Buddhism, famous for his asceticism).
The right side of the Dukhang has three complete sets of the
Kandshur the 108 volumes of Buddha's teachings) in lovely glass-fronted
bookcases. These cases were made in 1977 and have elaborate painted
decorations above and below the shelves holding the books. The
statue near the middle of the right side wall is Sakyamuni although
not with his usual blue hair. Opposite the Dukhang's entrance,
on the left side are five statues of various red-hat lamas. In
front of these are statues of Amitabha (the Boundless Light Buddha),
Padme Sambhava (an 8th century Indian Buddhist translator of Buddhist
texts into Tibetan) and Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha). In
the center is a throne seat reserved for Lamayuru's head lama,
who is also the head lama of Phyang gompa (both Lamayuru and Phyang
belong to the same sub-sect of the red-hat sect of Buddhism).
To the right of the head lama's seat is a chorten of no particular
significance and statues of Padme Sambhava and Tungdup Tshogs-gyal,
a previous head lama of Lamayuru. In the background are thankas
depicting Buddha's incarnations. Behind the main Dukhang is a
Gonkhang, a temple devoted to guardian divinities. In the temple's
new glass-fronted cases are various images. Starting from the
left there is a case of lovely sculptures made of butter mixed
with barley flour for Lamayuru's festivals; Mahakala the fiercest
guardian divinity, Apshi, a guardian of the gompa; Radha Shree,
a founder of the religious sect to which Lamayuru belongs; three
guardian divinities and another Apshi riding a horse. In front
of the cases is Tara, reflecting her twenty-one manifestations
(Tara is the consort of Avalokitesvara and known as the Saviouress).
After leaving the main Dukhang, take the steps on the left up
one flight. Go to the right and immediately on the left is another
Gonkhang devoted to the guardian divinities depicted on the temple's
side walls. During the gompa's festival (usually in March), the
masked dancers impersonate the guardians depicted in this temple.
There are three chortens in the front, the larger central one
being decorated with turquoise and coral. The chorten on the right
contains the relics of a previous head lama. This temple has statues
of various lamas, as well as murals of the lamas on the wall behind
the statues. Separate from the large building containing the Dukhang
is an old, small temple dedicated to Avalokitesvara. In the alcove
opposite the entrance is a very old eight foot high image of Avalokitesvara
with 1,000 arms and eyes in each hand (symbolizing his enormous
strength) and eleven heads (nie Bodhisattva heads, one head angry
at the suffering in the world and a Buddha head on top), Avalokitesvara's
name means "Lord of All He Surveys" and he is velieved
to be reincarnated in the Dalai Lama. In the alcove with this
image is a collection of smaller images of Avalokitesvara, Padme
Sambhava in the center front and smaller of the statues of 8 Bodhisattvas.
On the wall to the right of the alcove is a recent but very well
painted Avalokitesvara, again with 1,000 arms and eleven heads.
On the right side wall is a mural of all the various divinities
a Buddhist will see after death. The left side wall and the entrance
wall depict Buddha's incarnations.
Go through a maze of buildings to Singhe Ghang temple, which
may be original to the time of the monastery's founding as its
wall murals and images are similar to those found at Alchi and
dated to the 10th century. The main image is a large Vairocana
(the Teaching Buddha) seated on a lion throne with a garuda (mythical
bird) and sea monsters surrounding his head. Stucco images of
the Buddhas of the Four Directions are on the back wall. The left
side wall has a mural of an 11-headed Avalokitesvara and also
a mandala painting of Vairocana. The right side wall murals have
been almost totally obliterated by water damage. The wooden pillars
and beams are all from the Zanskar Valley.