Matho gompa lies about 20 km south of Leh on the other side of
the Indus River and offers spectacular views of the Ladakh range
from its perch on top of a ridge. Matho gompa was first established
in the 16th century by Tungpa Dorje after he had traveled extensively
in Tibet. Matho is the only representative
monastery in Ladakh of the Sakya order of Tibetan Buddhism. This
is a particular religious order. Centered on the Sa-skya monastery
in Tibet, which was founded in 1075 AD. Today the gompa has about
60 lamas and 30 novices from the larger gompas in Ladakh. Entering
the gompa's central courtyard, one sees a tall flag pole in the
center and another one at the far end. On the same side of the
courtyard as the entrance and up a few steps is the Lhakhang Soma
or New Temple, built in 1974. The verandah has new mural paintings
of the Guardians of the Four Directions and an elaborately and
colorfully decorated doorway. Inside the Lhakhang all the wall
murals were painted in 1977 and are very colorfully done.
The left wall next to the entrance portrays Matho's founder,
Tungpa Dorje, with representatives of Matho's two oracles below
him. Next to him is an idealized portrait of the present head
lama of the Sakya sect. The right entrance wall shows a White
Mahakala (a particularly fierce protecting deity) and to the left
of this is a painting of the Four Headed Sarvavid (the omniscient
or guardian aspect of Vairocana (the Teaching Buddha).
The wall murals on the left side of the Lhakhang depict various
lamas of the Sakya sect while the right wall shows the various
manifestations of Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha. The central
panel of the right wall depicts Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Mila
Ras-pa, historical personages associated with the early doctrines
of the Saka sect. In front of the Lhakhang is dominated by the
throne seat reserved for the Sakya sect's head lama who now resides
in Dehra Dun. The central statue behind the throne is Sakyamuni,
the Historical Buddha, blanked by the red decorated hats worn
by Matho's oracles. Surrounding the statue are numerous small
Buddha statues flanked by the canonical texts of Buddhism. After
leaving the Lhakhang, the entrance to the ukhang or main assembly
hall is visible on the right side of the courtyard. The verandah
is again painted with the Guardians of the Four Directions but
the murals are old and not in very good condition. Inside the
Dukhang are two rows of seats for the lamas and a throne seat
reserved for the Rimpoche or head lama of Matho. The four statues
behind the throne seat are, from the left, the thousand-armed
form of Avalokitesvara (a Buddhist deity analogous to the Hindu
god Shiva and believed to be reincarnated in the Dalai Lama),
Maitreya (the Future Buddha of Compassion), Sakyamuni and a blessing
Buddha. The wall on the left side of the Dykhang shows various
Sakya lamas and the Four Headed Sarvavid. The right wall depicts
the four-armed manifestation of Avalokitesvara, a blue Sakyamuni
and two Sakya lamas. The entrance wall has Mahakala the fiercest
Buddhist guardian divinity on the left and other protecting deities
on the right. Upon leaving the Dukhang, climb the flight of steps
on the right, walk through the enclosed passageway towards the
left until a wooden ladder is reached. Climb the ladder and at
the top go through the door immediately in front and enter a small
courtyard. Go through the door at the opposite end of the courtyard
and there are two rooms to be seen: the Gonkhang on the left and
the gompa museum on the right. Women are not allowed in the Gonkhang
and photography is prohibited.
The Gonkhang, in which meditation takes place, is ascribed great
spiritual power as it is the room in which Matho's order prays
and enters into a trance. The oracle's special clothing is hung
in this room and the Gokhang also contains old weapons and thanks,
masks and statues. Directly opposite the entrance is the seat
of the head lama and in front of that is a table for maize and
oil lamps. According to an old custom, a representative of every
family from Matho village brings a small bowl of maize grain from
the first harvest to this room. This practice is not accompanied
by any special ceremony. One lama, changed every three years,
is particularly responsible for the Gonkhang. The museum opposite
the Gonkhang contains, among other things, numerous thanks, a
stuffed yak, a poorly stuffed and preserved snow leopard, masks,
stucco statuettes. Phurbos (ceremonial daggers) and miscellaneous
ritual objects. Leaving this area of the gompa and returning to
the small outer courtyard, on the right is the Lamdre, a shrine
in honor of the Lamdre lineage of lamas. Lamdre is a special teaching
associated with the Sakya sect. Photography is not permitted in
this room, which contains numerous statues of various Sakya lamas,
old thanks and small Buddha and Mahakala statues.