Phyang gompa is also known in Ladakhi as the Gouon gompa, meaning
"blue peak" for it is beautifully situated on a hilltop
above the small village of Chhiwang, about 22 km west of Leh.
The monastery was built by King Lkra-Shis-Namgyal,
founder
of the Namgyal dynasty in 1500 after defeating the last of the
Lha-Chen kings. Lkra-Shis-Namgyal ruled from 1500 to 1532 and
during his reign, filled the monastery with beautiful statues,
thankas and copies of the Kandshur (the translated word of the
Buddha) and the Thandshur (the 225 volume commentary on the Kandshur
compiled by the religious teacher Du-ston, 1290 to 1364 AD). These
extremely valuable texts are still at Phyang gompa. Phyang is
a monastery of the red-hat sect of Buddhism with over 100 lamas.
The head lama studied Buddhist philosophy at a university near
Lhasa for eight years and had much of the gompa renovated in 1975.
After ascending several small flights of stairs, one reaches the
rather small main courtyard with its tall flag pole in the center.
The Dukhang or main assembly hall is off this courtyard up another
small flight of steps. The verandah in front of the Dukhang has
been recently painted with beautiful murals of the Guardians of
the Four Directions. Entering the Dukhang one immediately notices the glassed-in sanctuary
opposite the entrance. The central statue is Amitabha (the Boundless
Light Buddha or Buddha of the West) and to the left are statues
of a large Avalokitesvara with 1,000 arms, which symbolize his
enormous strength, and various lamas of the red-hat sect. To the
right of the central statue are images of Tilopa (a founder of
the red-hat sect) and Maitreya. In the background the statues
portray (from the left) Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha), Vairocana
(the Teaching Buddha) and Maitreya. The walls of the Dukhang are
decorated with murals of Vajradhara (a Buddha manifestation),
the Five Buddhas (Vairocana and the Supreme Buddhas of the Four
Directions) and small paintings of the Thousand Buddhas in the
background.Hanging on the columns on the right side of the Dukhang is an
enormous rolled-up thanka. This thanka, embroidered with depictions
of all the guardian divinities, is unfurled during the Phyang
festival, usually in August, and is four stories high when completely
unrolled. After exiting the Dukhang turn to the left and walk
along the pathway until you reach the next left turn, to the Gonkhang.
This temple is dedicated to Mahakala the "Great and Black
One", the fiercest guardian divinity in the Buddhist pantheon
of gods. The statues at the front of the temple are of Mahakala
flanked by four statues of his various manifestations. The faces
of these statues are covered with cloth and only displayed to
the public once a year during the Phyang festival. The pillars
in this temple are partially covered with tiger hides that were
presented by an official of Kind Jamying Namgyal to Phyang gompa
in 1595. Also hanging from the pillars in this temple are ancient
Mongolian armaments, including armour, shields and helmets. These
objects were taken from Mongolian soldiers who were killed in
a battle on the site the gompa now occupies. For no discernible
reason, on the right side of the temple is a poorly stuffed Siberian
crane, taken near the Chinese border and over the entry door are
two stuffed ibex heads. The wall murals in the Gokhang depict
Mahakala's various and numerous manifestations. Behind the Mahakala
satues are wall murals of Mila Ras-pa, Sakyamuni, Tilopa, Marpa
and Naropa. With the exception of Sakyamuni , these are all historical
personages associated with the founding of the red-hat sect.
The "New" Dukhang was built by Dam-chos Gyur-med, the
31st and previous incarnation of the present head lama. The verandah
to this Dukhang also has wall murals of the Guardians of the Four
Directions. Inside the Dukhang and directly opposite the entrance
is a throne sea reserved for the head lama. To the right of the
throne are stucco images of Avalokitesvara with four arms and
various lamas of the red-hat sect. To the left of the throne are
images of three lamas, the middle one being Kun-dga Grags-pa,
founding lama of Phyang gompa. There is also a small group of
Kashmiri Buddhist bronze statues flanking the throne. These date
from the 14th century at the latest. The side walls of the Dukhang
contain murals of Sakyamuni flanked by his two chief disciples
and images of various Buddhas with the eight different hand gestures:
that of blessing, teaching, etc. The entrance walls are decorated
with murals of the various guardian divinities. On the right side
of the Dukhang are also two chortens decorated with semi precious
stones. The larger one contains the relics Dam-chos Gyur-med,
the previous Rimpoche of Phyang and the builder of this temple.
Along the top of the Dukhang is a narrow walkway with mural paintings
on three sides. The two side walls depict guardian divinities.
The wall opposite the entrance shows Jig-sten Gon-po, a holy teacher
associated with the red-hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism, in the center.
He is flanked by various other lamas of the red-hat sect.