Spituk gompa was built about 550 years ago by Gyalpo Bumide,
although one temple, dedicated to Mahakala was built about 900
years ago. The Spitok is probably derived from the Central Tibetan
language and means "Effective as an Example", referring
to the fact that this was the Tibetans' first monastery in Ladakh.
Spituk gompa contains both old temples and those built in the
1970s.
Ancient thankas are preserved here, some having been taken from
the Potala Palace and Lhasa after the Chinese invaded. Some 125
yellow-hat sect lamas are considered Spituk lamas, but at least
half of them live and pray at Spitok's dependent monasteries at
Sankar, Stok and Sabu. All the lamas gather together for a major
festival. The head lama of Spituk is also the head Lama for Ladakh
and represents Ladakh has been India's serving ambassador to Mongolia
and was also a member of Parliament. After ascending and descending
several flights of stair, one is in the main courtyard. It is
here that Spitok's main festival, the Spitok Gurstor, is celebrated
in mid-winter. Masked dances take place here, ending with the
sacrificial destruction of a cake. Hence, the festival is known
as the Spitok Festival of the Sacrifice of the 29th Day. The festival
takes place on the 28th and 29th days of the 11th month of the
Tibetan calendar. The monastery also has a statue of Kali whose
face is covered throughout the year but displayed to the public
for one day during the festival. Steep steps leading from the
main courtyard lead to the Dukhang or main temple. The walls both
inside and outside the entryway have pictures of fierce protecting
deities. Inside the Dukhang are five rows of low seats for the
lamas and a high throne at the far end, reserved for the Dalai
Lama, although he has only made one visit here since leaving Tibet
in 1959. Behind the throne are manifestations of Lord Buddha.
On both side walls of the Dukhang are Buddhist canonical texts.
Beside the central throne are doors leading to a low dark chapel
behind. In a central position are images of Tsong-kha-pa, founder
of the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism and his two chief disciples
as well as an image of the Buddha. On the left is an image of
Tara the Saviouress and consort of Avalokitesvara, and on the
right are statues of previous head lamas. From the main courtyard
one can reach another smaller courtyard that is in front of the
Chikhang temple, another assembly hall similar to the Dukhang.
This temple was built around 1960 and contains beautiful murals
on all the walls. The room is dominated by a statue of Sakyamuni,
the Historical Buddha. To the right is a statue of the 11 headed
Avalokitesvara, the "Lord of All He Surveys" and analogous
to the Hindu god Shiva. A small room behind the Buddha statue
is dedicated to a guardian divinity whose image remains covered
all year, except for one day during Spituk's winter festival.
The new Chokhang temple is several levels above the Dukhang courtyard.
It is here that funeral ceremonies take place. The central large
statue is of Sakyamuni. To the left of the Buddha is a statue
of Padme Sambhava, an 8th century Indian Buddhist scholar who
translated the Buddhist texts into Tibetan from their original
languages of Pali and Sanskrit. To the right is a statue of the
goddess Tara. The temple also contains many exquisite thankas,
some quite new. Diagonally opposite the Chokhang and on the same
level is a small temple called Dolma Lokhang which is devoted
to Tara (Dolma in Ladakh). In this temple are 21 beautiful statues
of Tara, representing her different forms. The gilded clay figure
on a horse represents the King of Ladakh, Shukdan. Next to the
temple is the head lama's private apartment.
The largest temple, standing above the other temples near the
crest of the rocks is the Gonkhang. Although another name for
this temple is Kali Mata, the temple is not dedicated to the Hindu
goddess Kali, but rather to Mahakala, the fiercest Buddhist guardian
divinity. Together with the image of Mahakala are the images of
other fierce guardians: the "Six-Armed One"a form of
Mahakala, the White Guardian, the Brother and Sister, Khyitra
on his dog and the Goddess on her horse. The last one is derived
from the Hindu goddess Kali who entered the Buddhist pantheon
of gods in a minor capacity. The images of Mahakala and the six-armed
form of Mahakala are carved from black stone and are very old.
In order to clearly see the images in this dimly lit temple, it
is necessary to bring a very strong flashlight.