Tak Thok gompa is situated some 10 km further up from Chemre
gompa in the Chemre Valley. The name Tak Thok in Lladakhi means
"Rock Rood" and refers to the cave chapel found in this
unusual gompa. The Rimpoche of Tak Thok is from Tibet and is highly
respected by Ladakhis. The gompa houses about 55 lamas of the
Nying-ma-pa sect of Buddhism, also known as the "Old Order".
Members of this sect are followers of Padme Sambhava's teachings
and Tak Thok is the only gompa in Ladakkh that follows this order.
Entering the main courtyard, one is immediately struck by the
rock outcroppings that surround the gompa. Indeed, the wooden
front of the chapel is only a front for the cave behind it and
most of the gompa consists of rooms hollowed out of the stone
cliff by nature or man. The cave chapel is to the left as one
enters the central courtyard. A small anteroom to the cave chapel
has been recently painted with the Guardian Divinities of the
Four Directions. In the front of the cave chapel are images of
Padme Sambhava and Avalokitesvara. Behind this image is a small
locked door leading to the small cave where Padme Sambhava is
supposed to have lived and meditated for three years. This cave
is not open to the public. The low roof of the chapel is the stone
of the cliff. Leaving the cave ahapel, go up a flight of stairs
and on the right will be the Kandshur Lhakhang. The Kandshur is
the 108 volumes of Buddha's teachings and a complete set of this
important religious work is found in this temple. There are also
statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) with his two chief
disciples by his side. The walls are decorated with murals of
guardian divinities. Opposite the Kandshur Lhakhang and to the
left is a small chapel containing religious books and four Buddha
statues.
Returning to the central courtyard, the Dukhang or main assembly
hall will be on the right (the same side as the courtyard entrance).
The verandah entrance to the Dukhang has beautiful new murals
of guardian divinities. These murals are covered by cloth all
year, except during the gompa's festival, in order to preserve
their color but just lift the cloth up to admire the workmanship.
In the Dukhang are several rows of low seats for the lamas. Opposite
the entrance is a throne seat reserved solely for the Dalai Lama.
To the left of this throne seat is a wall painting of Padme Shambhava
and on the right is a painting of Sakyamuni. On the right wall
towards the front is a glass-fronted case of small, colorful sculptures
made of butter mixed with barley flour. To the right of this case
are three large statues of Maitreya (the Future Buddha or Buddha
of Compassion). Padme Sambhava and Dorje Takposal (a manifestation
of Padme Sambhava). The other walls are newly painted with depictions
of guardian divinities done by the same Ladakhi artist who painted
the topmost temple in Chemre. Across the central courtyard of
the Dukhang are behind a low wall is the gompa's kitchen, interesting
mainly for its location under the overhanging rock-face.