Thiksey gompa was built some 600 years ago and consists of 12
levels ascending a hillside, culminating in an incarnate Lama's
private apartments at the summit. The gompa contains 10 temples;
below the monastery itself are chapels
and
"houses" stretching down the hillside. Some 100 monks
of the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism live here. After entering the
main courtyard to the immediate right and up several steps is
a new temple containing a large Buddha statue. This Buddha figure,
15 meters tall was constructed in 1970 to comemmorate a visit
to Thiksey by the Dalai Lama. The statue is the largest Buddha
figure in Ladakh and took four years to construct. The statue
is made of clay and covered with gold paint. Inside, the statue
is filled with both the Kandshur and the Tandshur - volumes of
Buddhist canonical texts. The statue was made entirely by local
craftsmen and represents Maitreya, ("compassion" in
Sanskrit) the Buddha of the Future. The prophecy made of the Future
Buddha is that the world will be undergoing such chaos that the
Future Buddha will teach compassion to the people.
Located directly above this temple is a small narrow room used
as a schoolroom for local boys. Here the lamas instruct the children
and some are later selected to become lamas. Traditionally, Ladakhi
families donated one son to become a lama although this practice
is gradually disappearing. Returning to the main courtyard and
going up the steep steps directly across from the new temple,
on the far wall will be mural of two Tibetan calendars with the
"Wheel of Life" depicted between them. The central portion
of the wheel has representations of a snake, a bird and a pig,
symbolizing greed, desire and ignorance respectively. Buddhists
believe that it is crucial to overcome these earthly ties in order
to become enlightened and escape the cycle of death and rebirth.
The wheel is held by Yama, a black figure who, after people's
death, determines their future fate based on their deeds during
their lifetime. To the right of these murals is the main prayer
room which contains racks of books along the left wall. Many of
these books are handwritten or hard painted. Recent editions are
done by block printing, as was previously done in Tibet. In a
small room behind the Dukhang is a large image of Sakyamuni (the
Historical Buddha) flanked by two smaller Bodhisttva images. On
the left is the 11-headed Avalokitesvara, form of the Buddha corresponding
to the Hindu god Shiva. Exiting the main prayer room, partially
down the staircase to the main courtyard is a steep, narrow set
of steps to the left. While climbing these steps, one can see
several temples devoted to various guardian divinities. Near the
summit and to the right is a small temple devoted to Maitreya,
the future Buddha. The wall decorations consist of a series of
small images of lamas, each placed in a separate wooden rack with
thankas behind. An enclosed verandah, which is actually over the
main prayer room, leads to the head lama's private apartments,
all of which were recently decorated in Tibetan style. The inside
walls of the verandah have modern paintings of the eighty-four
Tantric Masters. On the rooftop is the Lamukhang temple where
only men may enter. Also on the rooftop is Thiksey's library,
containing numerous religious books including volumes of the Kandshur
and Tandshur mentioned earlier.